Motor Swaps

Chrispy · Joined: 03 Nov 2007 Posts: 53 Location: Brisbane

Well you have to find or make 8 throttles that suit. Some people have used motor bike throttles before, or quad throttle bodies off a 4AGE 20V.

You then have to work out a way of getting synchronising the two banks, getting a TPS on one of them, installing a vacuum pump or similar to boost the brakes, work out a good way of getting idle control without a air injection valve and making it all fit under the bonnet.

I think it is well beyond what I can be bothered doing...

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Having dillusional dreams of V8 Z happiness...

niall · Joined: 06 Sep 2007 Posts: 153

ed300zx · Joined: 27 Dec 2007 Posts: 58 Location: brisbane

no worries, cheers fellas

MilkmanDan · Joined: 07 Sep 2007 Posts: 27 Location: Brisvekistan

8 throttle bodies with boost you are not 'actually' asking for trouble but making life difficult on yourself and your tuner. For what it would be worth money would be better spent on a sheetmetal manifold with 2 dirty big throttle bodies that would do the job and have better efficiency than the 8 tb setup.

Alternatively Chrispy you could hold off on the turbos and get a nice custom EFI setup which would allow you to utilise an 8 Throttle bodies. AEC Bullet made a very well designed system for the lexus 4 cam that worked quite well giving the MX5 a can-am racing look.

also looking at those pics of the v8 zed the exhaust piping looks half heartedly done, the intake does look quite good although flow testing would be worth the dollars on developement. If you are spending the cash you might aswell do it properly IMO.
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pilot of THE RED SHARK

Chrispy · Joined: 03 Nov 2007 Posts: 53 Location: Brisbane

I've seen the 1UZ 8 throttle bodies, they are fantastic but aren't cheap. About $2.5k if I remember correctly.

There's no reason why I couldn't use the standard injection system with eight throttles. The injectors are in the lower plennum.

I agree with you in regards to the exhaust manifold. I've been thinking about it a lot as it will probably be the most work in the entire project except for wiring.

I'm now tending towards low mount turbo's to keep the heat away from the intake and to make it look a little more OEM.

I will be using 1-2 big throttles unless I stumble across a few 20V intake manifolds.
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Having dillusional dreams of V8 Z happiness...

niall · Joined: 06 Sep 2007 Posts: 153

Id be using a couple of XF falcon Throttle bodys. 65mm standard. Thats more than enough ay mate?
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ed300zx · Joined: 27 Dec 2007 Posts: 58 Location: brisbane

ed300zx · Joined: 27 Dec 2007 Posts: 58 Location: brisbane

ok, i have been talking to some of the guys on nico and one of the members told me this

On mine I went the cheap route, and actually it's probably the most reliable route with the best road manners. I used the VH harness and ecu but had the ecu tuned by Robert aka-NICO ECU. It has a switch with 4 different maps in it. It was cheap, $250 USD, and will push the VH to it's stock limits. I rebuilt the VH .040 over for the biggest displacemt possible using off the shelf parts. Did a bit of home port matching and am building a ram air setup using the stock Z air box and some 3.5 inch tubing and silicone elbows from ebay.

I used the stock Q power steering pump in the stock location. It hit the sway bar and I would have had to drop the sway bar about 2.5 inches to clear it. I didn't want to rip the front of the car off if I ever hit something like a speed bump so I clocked the ps pump about 90 degrees clockwise, used the Z output fitting as it sits a lot closer to the pump, used the Z input adapter as it sits farther out, modified the vh bracket to let the pump sit up as high as possible and had to drill a new mounting hole in it as well as modify the vh bracket that bolts to the front of the engine. It allowed me to mount the pump much higher and I only had to lower the sway bar about 1.25 inches. It sits lower but it's not the lowest point on the car anymore, the exhaust is.

This setup allows use of the Z reservoir with longer hoses, stock vh ps pump and belt, and the only custom thing I must buy is a high pressure hose to go from the pump to the rack. The other hoses are low pressure supply and return.

I too am going to try and run a/c after everything else is done.

If you use the VH ecu and harness it's only about 10-12 wires that need to be hooked up and you can use the connectors off the Z to make it plug and play. There is one connector by the ecu that you can cut off and just splice in, then there are 2 plugs on the drivers side (u.s.) fender well that you'll also need to splice in for relay controls. The ecu also bolts right in to the Z bracket and looks just like stock. The harness also runs through the firewall with just a lil bit of trimming to the rubber and also looks factory.

Other things needed to modify are oil pan/sump, exhaust mani's, hole in hood and adaption to transmission. If you're RHD TT you may have to modify the clutch master/booster too.

I was able to get the cruise to work with just modding the brackets. The cruise system is totally separate from the engine harness so it's basically just mounting points to modify and it should work.

This swap is pretty time consuming and fairly difficult but in the end it is a clean swap that retains all of the oem functions for a fun car with a great V8 that is silky smooth, ultra torquey and lighter than the V6. This should be a great touring car. If you're looking for over 300-400 hp then look for another engine unless you're going to boost it.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=303078

niall · Joined: 06 Sep 2007 Posts: 153

Good info there erik. There's no doubt that its a vig job doing the conversion alone. then twin turboing on top makes it a massive undertaking.

Personally i would probably do it in 2 stages, do the conversion, then do the TT as a seperate project.
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ed300zx · Joined: 27 Dec 2007 Posts: 58 Location: brisbane

yeah, depending on whats easiest for chris we would probs go that way